Gym seals peeling from paint can be the result of several factors; paint that is incompatible to your seal, improper preparation of the seal prior to the application of paint, the application of the paint, and the preparation of the paint prior to sealing. The choice of paint and the preparation/application of that paint are very critical to adhesion of not only the paint to the seal, but also the seal to the paint.
Because of the differences in paint, Ecolab Professional Products developed a paint list early in 1996. We tested over 400 different paint combinations in order to have 7 standard colors available. We tried to find one paint company where we could say, "All you have to do is use a paint from XYZ Paint Co., follow label directions, and it will not peel". We could not find that single company. These paints were tested in 1996 and some of them have probably already been through reformulation. Therefore, while we still can't guarantee peeling will not occur when you use a paint from this list, at least we know you should have a better chance of success.
Remember gym seals will peel from paint for a variety of reasons. Insufficient screening of the base coat, incompatible paint, uncured paint, solvent (either water and/or waterless cleaner) left from tacking, and insufficient screening of the paint to a uniform dullness. The best way to insure adhesion is to screen the base coat, vacuum and tack the floor, pretest the paint for adhesion, allow the paint to cure completely, and screen the paint with an evenly worn 100 grit screen. High humidity, low temperature, a thicker coat of paint, or any combination of these factors will require a longer cure time for the paint.
PAINT ADHESION TEST(S)So how do you test for paint / finish adhesion? You have two options. Ok perhaps three? You can send in a sample of the paint (in the original container) to Technical Affairs along with information of the finish system to be used. We will apply the finish system following label directions and send you the results in two to three weeks; if the back log isn't too heavy. The second option is to do the test yourself or have your customer (this is the third option) perform the test. Let's cover you or your customer doing the test.
First you need to order a standard test roll of tape from Permacel in New Brunswick NJ. Their phone number is 732 418 2400. A 72 yard by 1" roll is $9.75 each. This is the same tape we use in the lab and under the ASTM test method D 3359- 97. Two methods are recommended; the field test and the test we use in the lab.
Test method A (Field Test): An X - cut is made in the film to the substrate (in this case, the wood). Pressure sensitive tape (Permacel 99) is applied over the cut and then removed and adhesion is assessed qualitatively on the amount of film removal from the paint.
Next you need to prepare a board with the same system the customer is going to use; following the label directions. For example; two coats of E Z ON, paint, and two coats of Triple X. Another example would be two coats of BaseLine, paint, and two or three coats of Front Court. If it says screen between coats on the label, screen between the coats. Vacuum, tack, paint, cure, screen, vacuum, tack, and apply the finish coats. JUST LIKE IT SAYS TO DO ON THE LABEL!!!
Use a razor blade or box knife to make two cuts in the form of an X. Each cut should be approximately 1 ½" long that intersect near their middle with a smaller angle of between 30 and 45 degrees. When making the cuts, use a straight edge and cut through to the wood.
Remove two complete laps of the Permacel 99 tape from the roll and discard. Remove an additional length at a steady rate (that is, not jerked) and cut a piece about 3 inches long. Place the center of the tape at the intersection of the cuts with the tape running in the same direction as the smaller angles. Smooth the tape into place by finger in the area of the incisions and then rub firmly with an eraser on the end of a pencil. The color under the transparent tape is a useful indication of when good contact has been made.
Within 90 seconds of application of the tape, remove the tape by seizing the free end and pulling it off rapidly (not jerked) back upon itself at as close to a 180 degree angle as possible. Inspect the X cut area for removal of coating from the paint or previous coating and rate the adhesion. No peeling of the finish from the paint along the cuts is the goal. Removal of the finish from most of the area of the X under the tape is a failure.
Test Method B (Lab Test): A lattice (cross hatch) pattern with either six or eleven cuts in each direction (horizontal and vertical) is made in the film to the substrate (wood). Pressure sensitive tape (Permacel 99) is applied over the cut and then removed. Adhesion is evaluated by comparison with descriptions and illustrations provided in the lab.
As in Test Method A, prepare a board with the same system the customer is going to use; following the label directions. For example; two coats of E Z ON, paint, and two coats of Triple X. Another example would be two coats of BaseLine, paint, and two or three coats of Front Court. If it says screen between coats on the label, screen between the coats. Vacuum, tack, paint, cure, screen, vacuum, tack, and apply the finish coats. JUST LIKE IT SAYS TO DO ON THE LABEL!!!
Use a razor blade or box knife to make six to eleven cuts in each direction (horizontal and vertical) in the film to the substrate (wood). Making a cross hatch pattern. Each cut should be approximately 1 ½" long and 1/8th to 3/16th of an inch from the previous cut. When making the cuts, use a straight edge and cut through to the wood. You will end up with a bunch of little squares. After making the required cuts, brush the surface lightly with a soft brush or tissue to remove any detached flakes or ribbons of finish.
Remove two complete laps of the Permacel 99 tape from the roll and discard. Remove an additional length at a steady rate (that is, not jerked) and cut a piece about 3 inches long. Place the center of the tape over the grid. Smooth the tape into place by finger in the area of the grid and then rub firmly with an eraser on the end of a pencil. The color under the transparent tape is a useful indication of when good contact has been made.
Within 90 seconds of application of the tape, remove the tape by seizing the free end of the tape and pulling it off rapidly (not jerked) back upon itself at as close to a 180 degree angle as possible. Inspect the grid area for removal of coating from the paint or previous coating and rate the adhesion. No peeling of the finish from the "boxes" along the cuts is the goal. Removal of the finish from most of the "boxes" of the grid under the tape is a failure.